BEIJING, China

36 hours in Beijing and so far its almost everything we'd heard it is, which is not to say that everything is going according to plan. We're here in China for a scheduled trip but flew in a couple days early to get acclimated to the 12-hour time difference and take in some of the sights not included on the itinerary.

Plan 1 - upon arrival walk to Wangfujing Street to check out the food cart vendors, duck in somewhere for a dinner and turn in for an early night to reset for the morning. Actual - at outset unknowingly took wrong right turn out of hotel lobby and walked up Dongsi North Road past single-story shop fronts which appear to be carved out of former Hutongs (old-city dwellings) that remain intact (and which we peered at down alley-like side streets) just behind this new, almost movie-set facade. We were enjoying the sights and somewhat delirious having been awake over 24 hours (other than 1 1/2 hours of plane sleep) and 35 minutes into our stroll realized we had not yet reached Wangfujing at the reported 10 minute mark. At that point I pulled the map out of my back pocket to get our bearings and determined that a subway station nearby provided a backtrack to our point of origin. Happy with that assumption we were beaconed by red lanterns to add a detour down what appeared to be restaurant row, complete with sunken tanks at doorways containing the evening's fresh catch. We finally answered our hunger pangs 2 hours behind schedule with corn from a food cart followed by divine sauteed mushrooms and various veggie creations that for $12 turned out to be way too much food.








Plan 2 - leave early to see Giant Pandas, subway across to Lame Temple and meander over to Olympic Village for nighttime views. Actual - awoke with a start at 12:30 pm (fully rested), quick hotel bite, then subway to Beijing Zoo. Several Pandas were getting their bamboo quota for the day so we had the pleasure of watching them munch and crunch in multiple cute poses. Ivy was in her large outdoor pen and was just waking from her nap - taken lying stretched out flat on her back - when we arrived. She was the most entertaining to watch as she sidled down her jungle gym in search of her snack. Suddenly the sky became ominously dark and we ducked back inside feeling it was a bit fortuitous to weather the storm under cover watching pandas work through mounds of bamboo. An hour later an entrepreneur arrived peddling ponchos and we innocently set out to see the lesser pandas. Unfortunately our storm brought flash-flooding to the Beijing Zoo so the animals were safely stowed indoors and we waded through mid-calf high waters to the exit.








Back in the subway we decide to postpone Lama Temple and proceed directly to Olympic Village, except it isn't exactly where we thought it was according to my pocket-map. But we forge ahead in the rain under cover of our ponchos in the general direction. We find what appears to be the former Olympic housing and continue on to a deserted stadium that is clearly not the Bird's Nest. Two young men appear and indicate they are deaf. Realizing our increased ability to communicate, Benedicta flaps her bird-shaped hands in gesture and they point us around the next bend. Eventually we see the upper outlines of the unlit Bird's Nest but have no idea how to get there from here as it is beyond a very busy roadway. Benedicta insists we stop for nourishment so after finding a pedestrian overpass we stumble into an exquisite establishment looking like the proverbial drowned rats. After several attempts at communicating our desire Benedicta hits on a word that works: "food"! We are led down a long hallway with many closed doors. One is opened for us and we are ushered into our own private dining room. We don't laugh at the absurdity of our scenario until the door closes discreetly behind our host. This time I ordered light - but tasty - as I was sure we would be washing dishes to pay the bill which surprisingly rang in at only 296 Yuan and our private hostess in our private dining room demurely refused to accept a tip.










Delightedly back on track we only made one more wrong turn (which resulted in a bit of shooing from a security guard) before reaching the back end of the Bird's Nest - having a superior viewpoint - and on to the central square with the Watercube holding sway with its frolicsome water bubble exterior.


In summary, 36-hours in I am thrilled with Beijing! I can get anywhere (eventually) on its very modern subways. It has been surprisingly not hot so far. The people are warm and laugh with and at us as we stumble around their city. We have seen very few tourists (other than those visiting from within China) some of whom stare at my white face and curls, or want to take their picture with Benedicta and her white hair. It is fun and surprising and lends itself to adventure. We have one more day to seek out our own desires before joining the tour for the major sights: Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Great Wall and more!