Most of the 40 villagers in Peggy’s Cove have lived there for generations. Painter and gallery owner Jo Beale is considered a newcomer, having arrived only 32 years ago. This hushed hamlet with honeysuckle-lavender-scented breezes hovering over the hypnotic sound of waves slapping glacial erratics and hills dotted with sturdy wooden havens could well have been the impetus for the postcard business.
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Halifax’s harbor (the second largest natural harbor in the world) is known for its maritime tragedies. It was ground zero for the Titanic rescue and recovery mission of 1912 and five years later suffered the most massive explosion prior to Hiroshima when the Imo collided with the Mont Blanc, a WWI vessel carrying 25,000 tons of munitions, leaving 2000 dead. We'll remember it for the succulently sweet lobster.
Nova Scotia is the kind of place you want to sit awhile. The tranquil inlets littered with skiffs and sailboats along the shore road invite you to pull up a deck chair at dawn and watch the sea lap its way high and low until the sun slinks away. As we stared exhaustedly at the horizon while dining in the Dawn’s Garden Café we contemplated skipping the evening’s slated entertainment to savor the quiet we’d found in Nova Scotia. Before we could pry ourselves from our seats we noticed some bobbing out at sea. We dashed to the window and watched a couple dozen dolphins schooling their way North and knew we’d had the best entertainment of the night.
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Our Halagonian (translated Halifax native) tour guide left us with a Scottish prayer today that begins: “Deep peace, quiet earth. Deep peace, gentle night. Deep peace, starry skies. Deep peace, light of the world.” I’m feeling that deep peace tonight. Are you?
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