ASSATEAGUE ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE, Maryland

Assateague Island is a huge barrier island off the coast of Maryland and Virginia and is home to about 250 wild ponies, with a fence separating the herd in Maryland from the one in Virginia. I was hopeful but not expectant of seeing ponies but the hour drive was well worth it just for the beautiful beach free of man-made dwellings. Umbrellas lined the shoreline in a single row and after a mile or so run up the beach I plunged into the surf which had that perfect combination of bobbing and smashing and casting one gradually downshore.




Before heading back to the mainland we hit all three turnoffs - most of the island is inaccessible by road. The hardy can hike down the beach for camping if they don't mind being devoured by mosquitos. Three ponies were grazing at our first turn. I hopped out wearing only my bathing suit and took a few photos before retreating to the car for long pants and a shawl. Whew ... they continued to graze unfazed by the pests. The ponies, being neither fed nor harmed by humans, expressed no interest or fear as I stood several feet away respecting and simultaneously entering their space.

Next stop, the bayside, where more ponies grazed out in the marshes. As we crossed to one of the outer islands we encountered teens hooking the entire necks of chickens as bait on their fishing rods. They explained that this was the best bait for crabs as they illustrated their skill in getting the crab hooked, grabbing their nets and hoping the crabs held on long enough to make the catch. A few times they were successful but all were thrown back in to feast on more chicken necks. Who knew?



As we exited a baby pony was snacking at the entry gate. What an amazing day. Fabulous swimming, wild horses and a delicious bowl of Maryland crab soup on the screened in porch at the Atlantic Hotel in downtown Berlin.

LEWES, Delaware

Lewes is a historic and still bustling fishing port on the Delaware Bay where the ferry to Cape May makes daily departures. Our first intended stop was the farmer's market at the historical society. Turns out antiques were on display so we enjoyed a little antiquing with the backdrop of the historic buildings that have been preserved and gathered on the grounds.


Lewes is one of those quaint towns with enough of a downtown to make it interesting but not enough to draw hoards of visitors. There are a few low-key B&B's and an Inn but it's across a drawbridge from the shore setting it apart from tacky beach shops.
The hoards, however, do gather at Cape Henlopen State Park, with its five miles of shoreline just east of Lewes. We arrived at 10:30 and beachgoers were spilling across the boardwalk from carpark to beach equipped with carts piled high with coolers, chairs, umbrellas, pails, boogie boards, towels and countless other accoutrements. We glanced out at the water and quickly headed farther afield.

There was quiet up on the bayside at The Point where a major section is closed off for the benefit of piping plovers, oystercatchers, least terns and other threatened and endangered beachnesters and migratory shorebirds. A few photographers with telephotos gazed at the nesters and children and clammers waded out 1/4 mile filling their buckets.





Lewes is a sustainable food lovers paradise. We hit the farm market and stocked up on fresh veggies to satisfy us between feedings on local seafood.

REHOBOTH, Delaware

Woke up at 6:30 am on the first day of our cat-sitting vacation - a Saturday - and said, "Let's drive over to Rehoboth for breakfast." Parking was free and plentiful before 10am and all but one breakfast place was boarded up until 8 giving us half an hour to scout for grub and scan for first impressions.

The bakery on Penny Lane looked promising, with crepes on the griddle at one window and croissants beckoning at the other but the line forming at Royal Treat tempted us to follow the crowd. Rather than wait in line we tripped along the boardwalk where bikers, walkers and joggers trickled along the promenade and wound our way back to Penny Lane.



By 9am the beach umbrellas began to unfurl and we realized this early morning jaunt was the best decision of our trip, showing us we could free up a planned day for sunning ourselves on the shores of Rehoboth. A little too crowded for our beach-going pleasure.



We did, however, return to Rehoboth for the food! Rea, the gal who cuts my hair, had suggested Dogfish Head, a place she'd wanted to visit for the music and homemade ales. She'd never made it down there so we went just so I could bring something back for her. As usual, my altruistic effort had an unexpected payoff: best meal of our trip! Second favorite: Chincoteague oysters at happy hour at Fins Fish House and Raw Bar. And we did make it back to that arcade for a few games of skeeball!


The Delaware shore area is saturated with marshland, inlets and canals breeding mosquitos and the stench of stagnant mushy water-bottoms forcing wimps like us to enjoy the beauty from the sterility of the indoors. At Serendipity in Milsboro on the Indian River the riverfront dining area, though lovely, sat empty as we enjoyed our crabcakes in the safety of the upside-down umbrella laden ceiling.