STONINGTON, Maine

We've found the perfect room! With a full-on view of Stonington Harbor, a deck and a fireplace. I haven't wanted to step foot in the village and have logged a couple hundred pages in Middlesex (an excellent read). This morning Benedicta set out on two treks: First - exploring Main Street to the right; Second - exploring Main Street to the left. We've actually found the perfect way to enjoy all the little galleries together - I find a shady spot to read and she makes the rounds and then tells me about the art and conversation over lunch.

The Harbor Cafe, two doors down, is the only restaurant open for dinner this week so last night (Monday) we headed over at 5pm expecting to be the first to arrive. Wrong! Almost every table was filled and the open ones all had reserved signs. Perplexed, we hovered around the entrance until a waitress, surprised that we'd shown up without a reservation, offered us a small table next to the specials board. Knowing there were no dining alternatives I told her we wanted to make a reservation for Tuesday night. "Okay, but you don't need a reservation for tomorrow night," she replied. So, you need a reservation for Monday but not Tuesday?? And this is no fine restaurant, just a corner cafe. Befuddled, but happy to know we had a guaranteed seat on Tuesday, we glanced at the specials. Monday - Two-for-One Night! Well, why didn't someone tell us? It was as if we'd stumbled into their secret supper and they didn't want to share the good news.

In addition to reading in front of a fire to the sound of the tide and the hum of fishing boats returning to the harbor, today brought one of my very, very favorite adventures. We took Miss Lizzie - the mailboat - across to Isle au Haut. It wasn't the trip I've dreamed of - a couple nights on the Isle at the only Inn (with a whopping four rooms) - because, you guessed it, we're too early in the season. It wasn't even the alternative trip of my dreams - a day hike through the Acadia trails - because ... yep, too early for the daytripper boats that stop at Duck Harbor. From the town landing it's a 4 mile far-from-flat walk just to get to the park trailheads. But it was a glorious 80-degree afternoon so we donned our fleeces and rain jackets and climbed aboard for the round-trip mailboat along with some Islanders returning from mainland shopping excursions. I was in heaven ... with the wind in my face and freezing waves crashing over the bow and into my hair. Upon our arrival, the captain gave me and the photographer from Fodor's permission to dash ashore while they unloaded so we could grab a few pictures before jumping back aboard for the return crossing. So, I came, I saw, I will find my way back!